What is wrong with my system(NAD C320BEE & EROS MK11).

Reading all posts in this thread from Arj, Square wave and rest I would like to add that NAD has very thin sound. It sounds kind of bloated in mid bass and shrill highs. Vocals is better off in CA and Marantz.

buzzer schrieb:

chill out guys listen to a 3 watt SET. that will blow any nad away in bass in terms of sheer impact. perhaps even a few more expensive solid state ones. a statement i would consider ludicrous just a day ago before hearing it for myself ya i have heard.. very loose and bloated bass.. what more can you expect from a 3 watt soap box.

by 'ya i have heard' do you mean you've heard viren's 3 watter? cos the little 'soap box' quite cleans out the nad's i've heard. yes SETs and bass generally dont go together in the same breath but for me hearing this one was indeed a revelation.

by 'ya i have heard' do you mean you've heard viren's 3 watter

Where have you mentioned in your first post about Viren??

chill out guys listen to a 3 watt SET

Neway I haven't heard Viren's 3watt SET, but heard a tiny watter SET earlier, great bass at first instance and on extended listening I realised it was bloated and rest no great shakes.

buzzer schrieb:

by 'ya i have heard' do you mean you've heard viren's 3 watter Where have you mentioned in your first post about Viren?? chill out guys listen to a 3 watt SET Neway I haven't heard Viren's 3watt SET, but heard a tiny watter SET earlier, great bass at first instance and on extended listening I realised it was bloated and rest no great shakes.

i was clarifying as to which SET you were referring to hence the question which one was this SET you heard?

i was clarifying as to which SET you were referring to hence the question which one was this SET you heard?

It was a DIY I heard.

So sorry to butt into this very nice discussion on SETs. I'll try and pick up where we left off earlier.

A closed design will start rolling off around 100Hz, and hit -3dB by 70Hz or so, for that size box (I estimate, not simulate). A vented design will go flat down to about 60Hz, roll off gradually till about 40, and then drop off sharply.

Given regular enclosure sizes for these 'home theater' style of speakers, the vented design normally has a higher absolute cutoff at the low end (-10dB) than a sealed design, but since the -6dB point is about an octave lower, it seems to satisfy most ears better, given the ear's low sensitivity in that region. Really, the only reason to stay sealed in these kind of boxes is if your room is very small, or you are crossing over to a sub. EDIT: or the drivers do not work well in a vented box. I forgot that could be a consideration in design too.

As far as amplifiers and bass go, there are a few factors that cause an amplifier to deliver poor bass, such as a low damping factor, inability to supply drive current to the loudspeakers, etc.

However it would be a very poor amplifier design if it would not work with medium sensitivity and moderate loads that are commercially available. I don't know that a commercial brand like NAD would be capable of such a blunder. Whatever I've heard of them seem to suggest that they should be able to hold their own among more accomplished rivals, but I cannot account for subjective opinions of everyone on this board.

This is my last post in this thread, and my only advice to the OP is to measure, because that is the only thing that will ever get you anywhere. Speaker Workshop is free, as are a bunch of FRD tools. Buy a cheap microphone capsule. If you're doing DIY, do it right. Subjectivity has no place as far as I'm concerned in this particular venture.

Good Luck!

Edit: I read about the power converter, and it's great that someone pointed out that as a potential problem, and it very well may be. The half-wave converter uses a TRIAC in series with the AC line, and basically chops the bottom half off the incoming AC. This creates severe issues with the power going into equipment that uses linear supplies (PCs, TVs etc uses SMPS and this causes them no problems, but you wouldn't want to plug a battery charger into such a solution).

Try a real transformer, or another amp.

buzzer schrieb:

i was clarifying as to which SET you were referring to hence the question which one was this SET you heard? It was a DIY I heard.

Correctly setup with the right kind of high-efficient speakers a low wattage SET amp will not sound bloated. You have heard the wrong setup then. In fact they sound quite the opposite.

Single driver – full range with SET amps are a different ball game altogether. It is useless comparing solid state amps / typical multidriver speaker setups with them. Both have their own fans and both camps have their own reasons to like / dislike them. I have heard extremely good examples of both.

eric_clapton schrieb:

Subjectivity has no place as far as I'm concerned in this particular venture.

Perhaps the wisest words said on this thread

I too shall desist from writing more as this is getting more seubjective than I can handle .

regarding SETs/Single drivers.. i belive the issue is on the quality of Bass Vs depth. SETs and single drivers will not go low and will not create the SPL..but the quality of bass in terms of articulation should not be bad....and a speaker at 50Hz can generate all the bass that most people want.



some bookshelves at 50Hz produce far more and better bass than floorstanders going down to 35 hz!

Arj schrieb:

eric_clapton schrieb: Subjectivity has no place as far as I'm concerned in this particular venture. Perhaps the wisest words said on this thread I too shall desist from writing more as this is getting more seubjective than I can handle .

Bhai,
I suppose opinions are always subjective...how come you discovered it so late ?

Hi All,

I visited Vinny place last Saturday.

Initially, I listened to his system which includes power amp(nad 350) and a pre-amp, with Marantz CD player and Acoustic Portrait Floor Stander.
The sytem sounded very good, good bass, soundstaging and very good high frequency response.

Then we connected my NAD 320BEE amp, the sound output was good, good bass and high frequency response, which I'm not getting with my EROS floorstander.


So I have to do some experiments before I come to a conclusion, one thing that is for sure is that there is no problem with the amp(NAD320BEE),
1)The problem could be in the speakers.
2)It could be in the room acoustics(coz Vinny's system is in a relatively smaller room than mine)
3)The Eros speakers may not sync well with the NAD amp.

Yesterday I moved my system to a smaller room(11 X 13 ft):
The results were surprising. The sound quality improved a lot, with a good bass response(almost 75% of what I got in Vinny's place) than what I used to get in the bigger room. Even the high frequency response was good.


I have to test the Eros speakers with one more amplifier and see the response.
Vinny pointed out that the voltage converter(1KVA) I'm using is too small in size), but I was satisfied with the amp response with the converter I got at Vinny's place, probably in future I may have to change it.

Probably the NAD amp is not able to drive the Eros II speaker(?).

Guys please share your thoughts.

maybe you can request square_wave and try out your speakers with his amp (in that way remove the converter fom the loop)
am sure you will do better as that to me seems to be culprit no 1. room acoustics etc should also play a part..but good bass boosted by room siz is not what you should be looking at. your speakers seem to be big enough to be played in a large room.

Arj schrieb:

maybe you can request square_wave and try out your speakers with his amp (in that way remove the converter fom the loop) am sure you will do better as that to me seems to be culprit no 1. room acoustics etc should also play a part..but good bass boosted by room siz is not what you should be looking at. your speakers seem to be big enough to be played in a large room.

well actually, i don't see why speakers should notbe dependent on the size of the room...

It is perfectly reasonable.

Mover ur speaker to a smaller room and if it was already good on bass u will fin it to be excessive on bass...move it to a larger room and u will find it lean..
al depends on room acoustics as much as it depends on the speaker desgn itelself

Savyasaachi schrieb:

well actually, i don't see why speakers should notbe dependent on the size of the room...

i dont think i said that.
what i meant was that the speaker by itself has a lower db of 37hz and with twin 6.5 woofers should be able to do a full range in a large room as well(at least that is what is claimed). With a bookshelf a smaller room would definitely be an option.

the response in a small room would definitely be better but would that be the best out of that speaker ?
if there is a problem in the bass and that problem lies somewhere else Seems like a better idea to identify that rather than cover it up by the artificial boost it will get in a small room....especially so as this is the DIY one and identification of the root cause goes with the spirit of DIY.

would like to use that to re-refer back to what eric_clapton wrote in this thread previously

One thing that strikes me as odd though is the lack of a 20-20kHz FR..all i see is a 200-20k

It would be nice to look at that intended curve at the low freqs.

Quick searching reveals success reports from most who have built this. But no mention on size of rooms or clear mention of their amps.

No user freq response measurements.

I'm liking this thread, and I'll take that comment about the 'last post' back, since there's an interesting turn of events.

To the TS: This is sounding more to me like you need more BSC in the crossover. Try building a small BSC circuit (use EDGE, search for EDGE and baffle step on Google) between the amp and the source to start with, this can be left in place or dialled in and used as a reference for the final correction if you want to build it into the speaker. Look for about 4dB of correction, you have to input the baffle width and driver locations and the software will output the values. Use the input impedance of the amp as the speaker impedance value, and ignore the very large L value it comes up with. You'll see, it's quite simple.

To savyasaachi: The reason you don't see measurements for below 200Hz is because the nearfield measuring wasn't done. For all DIY (and for most commercial speakers) the bass response is measured in nearfield and merged at 200Hz. Testing is done at a lower level to minimise group delay and room gain errors, which in this frequency range can be larger than the input signal. Since a lot of designers are working out a garage or similar unfriendly environment, the low-level measurements are either not done, inaccurate, or simply not reliable. Even anechoic chambers have problems below 50Hz, so some reputed kit builders leave it out, assuming that a DIY builder will adjust the low end to taste in the crossover/box/room size calculations.

eric_clapton schrieb:

To savyasaachi: The reason you don't see measurements for below 200Hz is because the nearfield measuring wasn't done. For all DIY (and for most commercial speakers) the bass response is measured in nearfield and merged at 200Hz. Testing is done at a lower level to minimise group delay and room gain errors, which in this frequency range can be larger than the input signal. Since a lot of designers are working out a garage or similar unfriendly environment, the low-level measurements are either not done, inaccurate, or simply not reliable. Even anechoic chambers have problems below 50Hz, so some reputed kit builders leave it out, assuming that a DIY builder will adjust the low end to taste in the crossover/box/room size calculations.

Well, i would at least expect simulated freq response like the kind you would get from software like Win Speakerz or WinISD.
The port length and the tuning frequency would be nice to know. If there was any compensation provided for the port since it is a flared port.

That would take you 10 minutes from the drawings in the site, the T/S of the driver, and WinISD. It's useless though, as in-room the response would fluctuate a lot from that ideal.

Also LF measurements don't count for room gain and group delay (I've alluded to this before), which contribute more to the bass than the speakers themselves most of the time.

eric_clapton schrieb:

That would take you 10 minutes from the drawings in the site, the T/S of the driver, and WinISD. It's useless though, as in-room the response would fluctuate a lot from that ideal. Also LF measurements don't count for room gain and group delay (I've alluded to this before), which contribute more to the bass than the speakers themselves most of the time.

Well, to the first part, it would give an indication as to how the box is designed.
In room response being room dependent it would be quite cumbersome to measure at a user's place and even then to measure it accurately, you need a fairly responsive microphone and a decent sound card.

If the user can get all this then yeah one could measure the LF response within acceptable limits.

I know about the gain induced by the room (not to mention placement itself) and the BS factor on the LF response of the speaker. Anyway, this is the problem of DIY..something goes wrong and then troubleshooting can take ages.

Not everything is as simple as "Ctrl+C, Ctrl+V".

Hemanth schrieb:

Hi All, I visited Vinny place last Saturday. Initially, I listened to his system which includes power amp(nad 350) and a pre-amp, with Marantz CD player and Acoustic Portrait Floor Stander. The sytem sounded very good, good bass, soundstaging and very good high frequency response. Then we connected my NAD 320BEE amp, the sound output was good, good bass and high frequency response, which I'm not getting with my EROS floorstander. So I have to do some experiments before I come to a conclusion, one thing that is for sure is that there is no problem with the amp(NAD320BEE), 1)The problem could be in the speakers. 2)It could be in the room acoustics(coz Vinny's system is in a relatively smaller room than mine) 3)The Eros speakers may not sync well with the NAD amp. Yesterday I moved my system to a smaller room(11 X 13 ft): The results were surprising. The sound quality improved a lot, with a good bass response(almost 75% of what I got in Vinny's place) than what I used to get in the bigger room. Even the high frequency response was good. I have to test the Eros speakers with one more amplifier and see the response. Vinny pointed out that the voltage converter(1KVA) I'm using is too small in size), but I was satisfied with the amp response with the converter I got at Vinny's place, probably in future I may have to change it. Probably the NAD amp is not able to drive the Eros II speaker(?). Guys please share your thoughts.

Glad to be of assistance Hemanth.
Hope you are able to exorcise the gremlins soon and enjoy your music

Vinny pointed out that the voltage converter(1KVA) I'm using is too small in size), but I was satisfied with the amp response with the converter I got at Vinny's place, probably in future I may have to change it.

Take a small risk, and at a time when you know that the power does not fluctuate....

listen to your system with the converter, and without it completely.

If the sound does not improve much with the direct connection, dont blame the converter....

Ampnutji,
I believe that he is using a 1KVA 230/110 voltage step down converter because the amp is 110v version. Direct connection can be disastrous

Regards
Anil

Hi,

Yesterday, Abhi and Sudharshan visited my place, Abhi had brought his Plinius integrated amp, audioquest interconnects and speaker cables.
We connected his amp with my speakers.
The results:
1)The overall sound improved a lot.
2)The bass was really good, but still it lacked the punch.

Abhi played some of his reference CDs and he told that the response from the speakers is not good.

Even at high volumes the dynamic woofer cone movements were missing. So there seems to be some serious problem with the speakers.

So the culprit is my speakers.

He suggested me try the following: To connect the woofers in parallel and directly connect it to the amp. I will be trying it out today.

Guys, please let me know what can be done for this speakers, I'm ready to change the crossover design.

Initially my idea was to get an impedance of 8 ohms, but now I want to try with woofers in parallel, I think I cann't achieve the 8 ohms. I think if I connect them in parallel I might end up with 2 ohms (correct me if I'm wrong), as the woofers are rated 4 ohms.


Thanks,
Hemanth.

ani said:

I believe that he is using a 1KVA 230/110 voltage step down converter because the amp is 110v version. Direct connection can be disastrous

Oops !

Thanks for pointing that out to me ! I did not read carefully.... I thought { } it was a Voltage Stabiliser ! Sorry about that, Hemanth

Paralling 2 speakers of 4 Ohms each will CERTAINLY drop the impedance to 2 Ohms, (excluding effects of the Xover and the enclosure) and could hurt yr amp, Badly....

Hemanth schrieb:

I think if I connect them in parallel I might end up with 2 ohms (correct me if I'm wrong), as the woofers are rated 4 ohms.

dont think speaker impedance is so straighforward as impedance varies with frequency (Usually much lower in low freq)
if you are planning to do any test with a single frequencey wave then you need to find the impedance for that frequency and then see if your amp can handle that load with drivers in parallel.

BTW not sure if I understood as to why 8ohms is required..have yoy not built the speaker to specs ?

Arj said :

BTW not sure if I understood as to why 8ohms is required..have yoy not built the speaker to specs ?

Arj, Hemanth had said in his opening post of this thread :

I have built the Wayne J's Eros MKII(speakerbuilder.net), I got the crossover from one of my friend(He got it from the Madisound). I used the drivers VIFA Vifa PL18WO09-04(7 inch woofer, 4 ohms) and Scan Speak D2905/9500 tweeter. The original Eros MK11 crossover uses 8 Ohm Vifa PL18WO09 and the final impedance is 4 ohms. My friend got the crossover modified(from Madisound) to accomodate the 4 Ohm Vifa PL18WO09, where the final impedance was 8 Ohms to suit his amplifier. I was looking out for something like that, so I selected the Eros MK11 with the modified crossover having 8 Ohm impedance. My setup is as follows: Amplifier : Nad C320BEE CDP : 541BEE Speaker wire : Belden 12AWG Interconnect : Blue jeans interconnect I have used good quality components for the crossover. The crossover is as follows: http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/3498/eroscrossoverqz1.jpg

Hemanth, you said :

I have used good quality components for the crossover.

Hemanth had also siad:

I disconnected the crossover. I directly connected the ampifier to the two woofers. I thought this would atleast act as ray of hope. Hmmmmmm, my bad luck, the bass remained same. So as you said this is the max bass these speakers are capable of Or it might be a problem with room acoustics.

Now Hemanth has been recommended to connect the 2 drivers in parallel, so that they could suck more juice from the amp, and ... hopefully .... produce more bass.

In the interest of the amplifier (and possibly the speaker drivers too ), I do not recommend the parallel connection.

... just my 2 cents ofcourse

I am confused here....CAn you please post links to the specs for the tweeter and the woofer that you have.

From this link it says that the woofer impedance is 8 Ohms..while you claim it is 4.

We know that the tweeter impedance is 6 ohms.

Just need to figure out about the woofer impedance.

The nominal impedance of the speaker as a whole is said to be 4 ohms(as per the website).

If your woofers are 4 ohms each and you put them in parallel..then your amplifier would probably die or go into shutdown mode.

Savyasaachi , it seems to me that the Drivers are available as 2 variants :

PL18WO-09-08 which is an 8 Ohm driver

&

PL18WO-09-04 which is a 4 Ohm driver

Hemanth has used the 4 Ohm variant, and got an alternate Cross Over design for the 4 ohm drivers....

Hemanth had posted:

The original Eros MK11 crossover uses 8 Ohm Vifa PL18WO09 and the final impedance is 4 ohms. My friend got the crossover modified(from Madisound) to accomodate the 4 Ohm Vifa PL18WO09, where the final impedance was 8 Ohms to suit his amplifier. I was looking out for something like that, so I selected the Eros MK11 with the modified crossover having 8 Ohm impedance.

Oh...my bad..

To Hemanth,
What amp is your friend using?
What sized room does he have the setup in?
Have you listened to your friend's system so that you have something to compare your own against?

Hi Amp_nut,
You are right, the woofer is available in two variants. I choose the 4 ohm woofer as it was required for the 8 ohm impedance crossover.

Last time when I connected the woofers to the amp directly, I had the woofers in series, so thought of trying with parallel connection.

Hemanth schrieb:

Even at high volumes the dynamic woofer cone movements were missing. So there seems to be some serious problem with the speakers.

Are you referring to the actual movement of the cone here?

Yes,
The cone movements at high volumes, when the frequency was going low(as indicated by Abhi).

I don't think you should see much movement of the cone in a vented design. Not as much as in a sealed design.

I don't think you should see much movement of the cone in a vented design. Not as much as in a sealed design.

Sachi, as far as I have noticed there was very little cone movement even at volumes beyond 1 O clock position...The bass was there and much much better than Nad but it wasnt upto the mark for the size of this floorstander. I have used this amp with various vented speakers and I have seen pretty serious cone movements when it comes to producing deep bass....but this speaker wasnt doing it. I recommended a parallel connection of the driver just to see if it really enhances the cone movement (in turn the bass) and then re-designing the crossover accordingly. To me the drivers were tonally pretty good and they had the potential of going down pretty low. But I was surprised that it was hardly drawing any current from the amp (the amp was happy and cold even at 3 o clock position and so was the speaker) and cones were moving as if they were being powered by a 25 watter .

square wave wrote :

Correctly setup with the right kind of high-efficient speakers a low wattage SET amp will not sound bloated. You have heard the wrong setup then. In fact they sound quite the opposite.

How do you know I heard the wrong set-up and not the right one? What makes you think that it was wrongly matched. How do you decide even if I heard a better set up than you I'm wrong in my decision. Please....all these aren't subjective but fact and bloated bass is indeed a fact, if it exists it exists and if someone doesn't hear it that way then he needs to grow up. I don't enjoy these. period.

Hi Guys,
Last Saturday(5th Jan) nietzsche(Subu) visited my home.
He had brought his 100watter power amplifier and a pre-amp(dont know the brand name).
We connected the pre-amp and power amp with my speakers, we used my blue-jean interconnects and belden speaker wire.
Initially we played my CDs, the results were astonishing. That is the kind of sound I wanted, the bass was great. the bass was tight. Then he played some of his reference CDs(chinese drums), the overall sound response was great. Even at 7'O clock position, there was lot of cone movements. The sound quality improved a lot, with more detail.

Now I'm convinced that there is no problem in my speakers and it was not matching with all the amps I tried all these days.
So my NAD doesn't sync with my speakers and it doesn't have that much power to run the speakers.

I'm totally happy that there is one amp with which my speakers sounds so great.

Thanks,
Hemanth.

so i guess your speaker needs much more power than the NAD can put out.

still suprprised that Abhis plinius did not give you the same effect..that is definitely a good and powerful amp capable of handling tough speakers.

Hi Hemant,

Your speakers are playing well - revealing the inner details of music with authority. The drivers are awesome.

Please look out for an amplifier, which can drive your speakers comfortably, preferably pre and power combo.

regards

Hi Hemanth,

I am glad that your speakers have given a good account for themselves.

Last Saturday(5th Jan) nietzsche visited my home. He had brought his 100watter power amplifier and a pre-amp(dont know the brand name).

nietzsche:

Do share the equipment details...

Arj schrieb:

so i guess your speaker needs much more power than the NAD can put out. still suprprised that Abhis plinius did not give you the same effect..that is definitely a good and powerful amp capable of handling tough speakers.

Hmm...thats surprising even to me. I am still surprised why the cones werent moving the way it should...it was not even doing half the excursion as my Dynes (which I suppose is a tough load)...I dont know whats wrong .
Nevertheless, its an interesting case .

Hemanth Wrote:

He had brought his 100watter power amplifier and a pre-amp(dont know the brand name).

Even at 7'O clock position, there was lot of cone movements

I think the Plinius you tried should be of 175-200rms/ch & you found it was not sounded satisfactorily. With nietzsche's 100 watter even at 7'O clock position you found lot of cone movements. No doubt we cannot measure the drive by mere rms specs, but still it's very interesting. Plinius are power conservative IMO.

Hi nietzsche> Pl do let's know the make of your amp sir. Since Hemanth has clearly mentioned "don't know the brand name" is it by any chance a DIY prod?

powersupply schrieb:

Hemanth Wrote: He had brought his 100watter power amplifier and a pre-amp(dont know the brand name). Even at 7'O clock position, there was lot of cone movements I think the Plinius you tried should be of 175-200rms/ch & you found it was not sounded satisfactorily. With nietzsche's 100 watter even at 7'O clock position you found lot of cone movements. No doubt we cannot measure the drive by mere rms specs, but still it's very interesting. Plinius are power conservative IMO. Hi nietzsche> Pl do let's know the make of your amp sir. Since Hemanth has clearly mentioned "don't know the brand name" is it by any chance a DIY prod?

The Plinius is a 100watter too..i have heard both the 8100 and the 8200, the 8200 is certainly better, still the pwoer rating is a bit over optimistic truth be said.

Savyasaachi schrieb:

powersupply schrieb: Hemanth Wrote: He had brought his 100watter power amplifier and a pre-amp(dont know the brand name). Even at 7'O clock position, there was lot of cone movements I think the Plinius you tried should be of 175-200rms/ch & you found it was not sounded satisfactorily. With nietzsche's 100 watter even at 7'O clock position you found lot of cone movements. No doubt we cannot measure the drive by mere rms specs, but still it's very interesting. Plinius are power conservative IMO. Hi nietzsche> Pl do let's know the make of your amp sir. Since Hemanth has clearly mentioned "don't know the brand name" is it by any chance a DIY prod? The Plinius is a 100watter too..i have heard both the 8100 and the 8200, the 8200 is certainly better, still the pwoer rating is a bit over optimistic truth be said.

Actually 8100 is a 100 watter and 8200 is a 175 watter but 8100 has more bass than 8200....however 8200 has a cleaner bass (tight, fast and more defined and goes lower as well). Had I used the 8100 at Hemanth's place, I am sure he would have been very happy with the bass slam, but I dont have it any more...I am using 8200 and thats what I had taken to his place. Whatever be the case, I was not happy to see the cones stationary (not exactly but relatively). An amp which drives a Contour well shouldnt have gone so wrong . I still feel Hemanth should try to connect the woofers in parallel and check the difference. At least as an experiment. He need not drive it loud....I think its worth a try.

Dear Ampnut & Power Supply,

It is a DIY stuff MOSFET power amplifier, 100 watts per channel, 30-kilo grams weight. The Pre amplifier is also homebrewed stuff.

The amp has the muscle power to drive tough loads.

regards

I am quite surprised to see such differences in performance between amps in the 60 to 200 watts category. An amp which is double the power will just give you 3db increase in power. If the amp is a well engineered one like the plinius 8200, it will drive any well designed speaker in real world conditions.
I am still quite doubtful about the speaker design. A diy speaker design like that should sing effortlessly with any well designed amp from 60 to 150 watts.

said:

It is a DIY stuff MOSFET power amplifier, 100 watts per channel, 30-kilo grams weight. The Pre amplifier is also homebrewed stuff.

Ah ! I used an Elektor Based 200 Watt Power amp with a Pre for years. A REAL BRUTE, that could drive Anything..

Money was (well) spent on a HEFTY power suipply, and the MOSFET output stage can provide wide Power Bandwidth well beyond 20 KHz....

The one I used could pump out 200 Watts at 100 KHz. Most Bipolar Output stages would simple blow up if tested at that level..

Dear Hemant

At 9’o clock position, I was afraid that your speakers’ cone would pop out from the cabinet. Please try out the ideas I shared with you to uplift the aesthetic look of the speakers.

Dear Ampnut

On your next visit to Bangalore, please drop in to audition my set-up and give your critical report.


regards

nietzsche ,

Thanks for the invite.

It will be my pleasure to meet and listen to your system when I am next in Bangalore.

I am sure it will be time enjoyably spent.

square wave wrote:

I am quite surprised to see such differences in performance between amps in the 60 to 200 watts category. An amp which is double the power will just give you 3db increase in power. If the amp is a well engineered one like the plinius 8200, it will drive any well designed speaker in real world conditions. I am still quite doubtful about the speaker design. A diy speaker design like that should sing effortlessly with any well designed amp from 60 to 150 watts.

Me too feel the same SW.

Dear nietzsche> thanks for the info. I would like to listen to that amp when I visit Blore next time. Is it distortion free or it's only about the loud SQ?. Hope it's very musical. I'm much interested to listen to it sir.

Abhi,

I connected the two woofers in parallel, but I didn't notice any bass difference between the connection in series and parallel.

Thanks,
Hemanth.